Scenic Highway 12 in Southern Utah
Bryce Canyon National Park is situated on the exhilarating Scenic Highway 12, also known as the "A Journey Through Time Scenic Byway." This 123-mile stretch is a rollercoaster of breathtaking scenery, starting west at Highway 89 and ending in Torrey, Utah, at Highway 24. The journey takes you from red rock towers to canyons, pine forests, and awe-inspiring views while passing through several charming small towns. A car is perfect for this adventure, as it allows for navigating the towns and conquering the 8%, 12%, and 14% grades. And then there is the heart-pounding "Hogback," a 1-mile stretch with drop-offs on both sides of the curvy road.
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Starting Highway 12 from the west entrance at Highway 89, here are the MUST-SEE sights on the way to Torrey!
Big Rig RV Route Decision: To travel between Bryce and Torrey in a big rig, do you drive Highway 12, showcasing our beautiful Earth, or go around on a more leisurely route? If you are prone to "white knuckle" driving on roads with shoulder drop-offs and curvy roads, challenged with climbing long elevations, or not comfortable using the engine brakes on long descents, then, from Bryce, travel Highway 89 north, Highway 62 east, and Highway 24 south into Torrey. It’s about the same mileage.
Mile Marker 7: Bryce Canyon City and the entrance to Bryce Canyon National Park
The ultimate in erosion created shapes of brightly colored pillars called Hoodoos. Where Zion is massive rocks, Bryce is a whimsical fairy tale wonderland.
Mile Marker 21: Cannonville BLM Visitor Center
Willis Creek Slot Canyon, just 6 miles from Cannonville, starts just steps from the parking lot. Follow the continuous creek flow into the slot. In the first half mile, the 25-100' canyon walls twist, with Willis Creek still carving away at the soft sandstone. The creek bed trail continues to Sheep Creek (a total of 6 miles round trip). Look for pyrographs carved on walls.
Visit the Cannonville BLM Visitor Center for maps and Willis Creek and Cottonwood road conditions. These roads may be impassable when wet. Nearby is Kodachrome Basin State Park, named in 1948 after the popular color film. The park is known for its crazy Breccia pipes and monolithic stone spires that resemble pipes, accentuating a multi-hued sandstone layer from approximately 180 million years ago.
Feel adventurous? Take a scenic drive down Cottonwood Canyon Drive through the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. It's 47 miles of dirt road with vistas of 160-million-year-old rock formations. The upheaval of the steeply tilted beds of the Tropic & Dakota formations makes you feel you are on the moon. Stop at the Cottonwood Narrows for a short hike. If the road is dry, you can drive a two-wheel drive vehicle. A few areas have ruts and bumps, but the road is usually in good condition. Below depicts the Upheaval called Cockscomb.
Mile Marker 60: Escalate, Utah
Welcome to the small, unique, charming ranching town of Escalate! Stop at Escalate Mercantile for lunch; pick up a Turkey and cranberry sandwich, Walnut Banana Bread, and a Blueberry Muffin. Nemo's Drive Thurs is a good choice for a burger, fries, and a Cookies and Cream milkshake!
Mile Marker 65: The Hole-In-The-Rock
Stop at the "Head of The Rocks" Overlook. The view is as far as you can see of the Escalante Canyons’ maze of deep, winding canyons and colorful slickrock. From here, it's a 14% grade down to the river.
Mile Marker 73: Kiva Koffeehouse
Mile Marker 73. Kiva Koffeehouse is a charming coffeehouse situated on a cliff with breathtaking views overlooking the canyon. It's an excellent destination for lunch, offering quiche, Spanish Tortilla, and cappuccinos, complete with pastries like tiramisu, cream puffs, or a cranberry scone, all while sitting on the outside porch.
Mile Marker 74: Natural Bridge Trailhead
You have reached the lowest point at 5,200' elevation at the Escalante River. This is also the trailhead to Natural Bridge, an impressive 130-foot-high arch with multiple ankle-deep river crossings, so bring your water shoes. The trail is 4.5 miles long, with level terrain and sections of deep sand.
Mile Marker 75: Lower Calf Creek Falls Hike
Lower Calf Creek Falls hike, waterfall, and petroglyphs! This 6-mile round-trip hike to stunning 120-foot falls over mineral-streaked colored sandstone. The trail winds along the creek with several rock steps, through heavy sand, many shaded areas, and is well-marked. Look for canyon wall petroglyphs at marker eight and brown trout in the stream.
Mile Marker 79: Welcome to "The Hogback."
"The Hogback". The reason for not driving your large rig on this road! Travel up the 14% grade out of the canyon to the top of the ridge. For one mile, the road winds along the top of the ridge, just wide enough to fit a two-lane road, with treacherous drop-offs on either side. Plenty of places to stop.
Mile Marker 82: Hell’s Backbone Grill
In Boulder, stop to eat at Hell’s Backbone Grill. This farm-to-table restaurant enjoyed one of the highest Zagat ratings in Utah and was selected as a James Beard Award semifinalist in 2017, 2018, and 2019. Reservations may be required.
After the town of Boulder, the drive to Torrey, 37 miles, climbs and ascends the Boulder Mountain Pass at an elevation of 9,600'. Due to its elevation, the mountain's panoramic views feature aspen trees alongside the spectacular rock formations of Capitol Reef National Park and the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. There are plenty of scenic viewpoints and overlooks.
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